9am we were picked up by Santos the guide who will take us to the
mines today, he had his assistant Eduardo also. We took off in his rusty old
van which was clearly struggling with the weight of three Gringoes and the
steep streets of Potosi. First stop was to get supplies and gifts for the miners
that we will encounter, at a local market. We were shown and told about the
coca leaves that the miners chew, which they take before going into the mine
with a small bite of limestone that helps release the active ingredients with
its alkaline properties, they then take a slug of 97% ethanol, mix it up and
hold it in there cheeks for the duration of their shift. This mixture helps
them by suppressing hunger, increasing saliva and numbing the pain! Crickey. We
also bought a bag each with a large soft drink, and some coca leaf to give to
the miners, oh and some dynamite to have some fun blowing stuff up. Harry,
being the martial arts and explosives expert on the trip was given the duty of
holding the dynamite in the car. Next off to get fitted for the protective
gear, some overalls (mine were printed with “Catastrophe, claims team” Hmmmm.
Also we got some gumboots and a helmet. The lights were fitted to the helmets
later. A quick trip to the toilet, literally a hole in the ground, for me, as I
am a bit nervous about this one, the five hundred year old mine that is, not
the dynamite. We climbed into the rusty van again and started our climb up the
mountain, it did occur to me that this part of the journey could well be the
most dangerous, given the way the engine was laboring and the unlikely presence
of adequate breaks. Santos gave us each a handful of coca leaves and a bit of
limestone to share and told us to get chewing, as we needed it before we head
into the, crisp are we likely to be in pain? I couldn’t do the elegant
technique of biting off the leaf leaving the stalk free, that Santos had
demonstrated so just started sticking whole leaves in and chewing. A little bit
of the limestone to add to the brew and sure enough I realised it was working
when my tongue started to go numb. Hax was in the back attacking the coca like
a man possessed and Harry was quietly chewing and looking lovingly at his dynamite
as we lurched and bumped up the mountain track. We arrived at the detonation
site, and put the dynamite into a ball, inserted the detonator, and then
surrounded the dynamite with a fertilizer that gives it about ten times the
punch. Harry looked crestfallen as Santos toke the package of to the distant
blast zone, apparently tourist are no longer allowed to do the explosion. Never
the less after a two minute fuse got to its end there was one almighty bang,
stones flew up and a mighty wallop as the shock wave hit us in the chest.
Ah yes, blowing stuff up, it never gets old.
We were fitted with our headlights then headed for the mine, what is
that rumbling in my tummy, perhaps I need to pull out sick? I would never hear
the end of it, man up hombre! We first had a look at the ore being bout out,
there are two grades it seems, the lower grade having 40g of silver per tonne,
and the high grade having 400g per tonne. We herd how the miners are in three
grades with the entry grade getting one hundred Bolivianos per day (about
US$13) and the third grade miners getting a commission which varies from 2000
to 20 000 Bolivianos per week. This is very good money in a country where the
minimum wage that most receive is 1000 Bolivianos per week. The numbers seemed
a bit screwy so this may not be completely accurate (I do not think math’s is
Santos’s strength). The cooperative miners that we were visiting are also
eligible to get a pension once there lung function reaches 50% but they do not
have to stop if they do not want to. The life span is seriously reduced due to
the dust, which includes a lot of nasties such as asbestos. We had a chat with
two groups of miners that were having a break, and they were very curious about
where we were from and what we do, we had to be honest this time (In Santos
registration book he took a Lumberjack, Ballet Dancer and Violinist in today,
just imagine the headline if there was a collapse –“today in a tragic accident
three Kiwis a lumberjack, ballet dancer and violinist added to the tragic
history of a Bolivian mine”). We also saw the Lama blood that is spread on the buildings
and entrance to the mine which is from the intermittent sacrifice that is made,
followed by a Barbie and an earth oven much like a Hungi that they cook
potatoes in. this is all for good luck.
Eventually it was time to head in – grumble grumble, I really think
that I am not well? It would probably be irresponsible….
Torches on and in we went. The mine we went into is three hundred
years old, and the entrance is still held up with the colonial times technique
of stone arches, very impressive. It was crouching height within about 30m even
for Santos who was not a tall man. It straightened up intermittently, and dropped
in height to an uncomfortable crouch and almost crawl at times. After a few
hundred metres the colonial rock arch supports were gone and the modern times
timber supports were there instead. There were a lot of freestanding areas as
the mountain is pretty solid rock. The timber supports left a lot to be
desired. Lots were broken and patched up and looking very dodgy indeed. I was careful
not to bump my head on those broken bits that were hanging down. Eventually we
got to where the seams of silver are. Here the miners follow the seam digging
20 metres up in one direction and 20 meters down in the other. They apparently
leave 5 – 20m to bridge each level to prevent collapse. I am not sure how they
measure and monitor this, I am not convinced having seem it. We went down one
shaft to an area where a devilish guardian is worshiped by the miners. This is
Tio the miner’s god who they do the sacrifices to appease. They give him
cigarettes, lit by the look of the blackened mouth, they also throw coca leafs
at this feet and just hang out with him for a while. We then headed back to a
tight squeeze through a hole and onto a rickety ladder to descend into the
lower area where we headed to an area that Santos works as a demonstration. He demonstrated
the technique of digging holes with a pick and hammer and a long spoon to scoop
out the chippings. These are the same tools that were used in colonial times, i.e.
hundreds of years ago. Technology and modern safety has not caught on I these
mines. He offered us to have a go so I jumped forward. Should be able to add
mining to my CV now! Hax commented that if I missed with the e hammer I could
strike gold as I had my gold ring exposed, meanwhile Harry helpfully told us a
Rodney Rude joke about Miners, Chewing gum and male anatomy. Despite the
distractions I did not hit gold. We continued along to explore other areas
including ventilation shafts, elevator shafts, various rickety bits of wood
doing lord know what, often with tones of rock looking precariously supported.
8 million people have died in this mine. Yes you read right - 8 million.
Initially slaves did the work and were sent in for 36 hours and had to produce
1 ton of material or were presumably made an example of, they died from
exhaustion, and numerous collapses have killed also. Looking at the technology
in this mine this history has only lead to minimal modification in work
practice. Various stats are quoted for the lifetime of miners but as low as
only 10 years before they develop silicosis from the dust exposure.
The good thing about silver mines is that there is no methane, as
found in coalmines. That is unless you are walking behind Hax. He is one sick
man.
Eventually we headed for home via more rickety ladders, and gapping
holes going who knows how far down. Various parts of the mine were very hot and
airless, whereas the ventilated areas were cool. We passed some miners pushing
in a wagon on the tracks. These wagons are pushed by four miners and hold one
tonne of ore when full. It looked awkward work, especially in the tight areas
where there would no doubt be only enough room for the wagon. The bright light
of the opening was a welcome site. I will never complain about work conditions
again (that’s probably not true).
We chatted with a few more miners then headed back to town. I spat
out my cheek full of coca leaves feeling pretty good, not at all hungry,
relaxed, no pain, what do you know it works.
After a return of the gear and a wash down it was about 12.30 so we
headed into town for a coffee. We have not been drinking enough coffee, we are
all enthusiasts (addicts) to the stuff. Went for a wander around the town
taking in the old buildings and atmosphere. It is a very old town but has
fallen into ruin in many ways. It still has a charm about it. It was definitely
designed for horse and cart not modern vehicles, very tight alleys everywhere.
With kinks in them to prevent the wind blowing through. We went around the Mint
which was Bolivia’s Mint until the 50s and is in a building that is very
elaborate on the inside apparently, we did not go in as it is a tour thing and
we are toured out after this mornings adventure. Apparently when the King of
Spain received the bill for building the Mint he asked if it was built of
silver. At three we returned to the hotel to Skype the whanau, Di and Sophie
are off to Lady Gaga and are very excited about it. They have some Gaga
uniforms to wear- big hair and impractical clothes.
We headed back into town hoping that more shops would be open after
siesta. They were not for some reason. After awhile we decided to angle back to
the café we have frequented, and this went from a mozzie I’m at 4000m and need
to take it easy pace, to a fast march for Hax who is a sick man and needed to
get to the toilet urgently. Sadly the door to the toilet opened directly into
the café, so that really lowered the tone for everyone. I took my time and
enjoyed photographing a few interesting images that were presenting themselves.
When I got to the café Harry had a look of urgency on his face and had to fast
march to the hotel around the corner because Hax was taking too long in the loo
and he had a bladder on burst level. We have been drinking heaps, as Geert as
recommended drinking an extra 3 litres per day at this level, it seems to work
but man do we need lots of toilet time.
Hax came out looking much happier, and a poor women had to go in
after him, she looked like she was sucking a lemon as she went in. We enjoyed a
coca mate and some chees cake, not because we were hungry but it just seemed
the right thing to do. Harry returned looking much happier. He was still
wearing the same trousers.
Dinner was a bit disappointing, we tried to find a local cuisine
place but they all seem to be closed today. Ended up with a place that was full
of locals. I ordered Tortilla, Harry ordered Pizza and chips and Hax the
gastronomic adventurer of the group ordered two things that he did not know
what they were, but they sounded interesting. They both turned out to be
processed meat/luncheon one with stale bread, the other with chips. A bit
disappointing. Quiet night in.
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