The day started with a final fix of Harrys bike. Geert had been up
since 5am fixing the radiator with some goo and had drained the radiator and refilled
it, but was not able to complete the reassembly of the faring’s in the dark, so
we rolled it out onto the street and put it together in the daylight. Headed
out of town in the usual traffic, squeeze, push and shove. Flying along it
became apparent that Harrys bike was still not well, it was hot and antifreeze
continued to poor onto Harrys boot. Geert wanted to persist and topped it up
with more coolant. We continued at a slow pace nursing Harrys bike. As we
approached one of the villages I noticed the police trap again and hit the
brakes to make sure we were doing no more than the 35km/hr. as we entered the
hardly perceptible village. We were flagged down. Geert was right behind us
this time and quickly took the lead with the officers. I pointed out that we
were doing 35 at the sign, however they were not worried about that but that we
were doing 88km/hr. before this in an 80km/hr. zone. Oh, ….that’s true. We
received a lecture about the speed limit and the officer had his book opened
and pointed at the law and the fine of 200 bolivianos for speeding (Geert
noticed that it did not matter how fast you were going, speeding is speeding –
one fine) we asked Geert “ so do we just pay”, “no hold on guys” he said. The
lecture continued about potential limb amputation, decapitation and any other
gruesome potential injury if an accident occurred, we listened and nodded our
heads periodically. We may need to be taken into the station in Oruro for the
ticket (100km back from where we had come). While this lecture was given to us,
buses and loaded trucks sped past at speeds exceeding 100km/hr. I guess. The
trucks had a mixture of Lama, Cattle and people on their decks, no police
seemed to even notice, let alone care. Eventually we were offered a100boli cash
price, and we dutifully dug into our pockets and produced the 100 bolies each.
We stopped at a town that was having a market, with a lot of
activity going on. Sheep and Lama were tied at the hoof and liing in groups as
people presumably bought them. Bunches of fleeces were piled up for sale. Down
an alley we could see cattle also lined up with people excitedly standing
around. There were hundreds of people on the road and stalls were selling
various foods and trinkets.
Harrys motor problems continued, a frustration and unhappiness
slowly built in Harry. At the next stop to top up the radiator Harry put his
foot down with Geert, and laid down the law about getting it fixed properly. I
am not sure if Geert knows that Harry is not only considered to be el bastardo
but is also the explosives and martial art expert of the trip, but he conceded
and apologized and we changed plan to get to La Paz and get the bike
professionally fixed. The antifreeze continued to poor out onto his boot but he
forced a smile and we continued.
Border police at the entrance to La Paz noticed us lingering for
Geert to get through the tollbooth, so ended up interrogating us for papers and
details of our travels and origins. Why? Who knows?
Into La Paz, it seemed dirty and uninspiring. We drove around trying
to find a garage that one of the police had recommended to us. No success, as
it is Sunday and they are all closed. We continued into the main city. Through
another toll gate and we got a look at the city. La Paz is built in a huge
extinct Volcano. From the crater rim that we stood on, it looks like the brick houses
are pasted onto the hills, like a huge cake with a red brown icing that has
collapsed in the middle. The town center with the high-rise buildings is the
best part of town apparently and the suburbs on the hills are the poor parts.
We descended at La Paz pace (fast) into the busy Environment and found our
hotel.
We walked into the witches market, a place where you can get all
sorts of remedies such as Lama fetuses (who knows what these are for) and
herbal cures for what ever you like. I could see no evidence of double blinded,
placebo controlled, cross over trials, or side effect profiles.
We looked at and purchased various trinkets. Walked down to San Francisco
church and on to the Palace of the President, Cathedral and main Plaza, which
was all very impressive with the gardens well kept and no sign of rubbish. Back
past heaps of markets on the streets selling all sorts of things, with a real
buzz happening. Hax and I bought old style coke in a glass bottle for 1 boli
(about 20cents) and had to purchase the bottle as well to take it away (another
1 boli), good to see this recycling happening. Met Geert who took us to the
Presidential Hotel for a restaurant meal at the 15th floor
restaurant with open 360-degree view out to the surrounding city. Five star
hotel and restaurant with excellent food. I had river fish, Hax had Lama ragu,
and Harry had a Lamb Kebab. All of these meals were first class and washed down
with a Bolivian Red, which was also OK. The toilet had a urinal with a window
looking out to the city, the best urban view from a dunny I have experienced.
We have all been pleasantly surprised by La Paz, we were expecting a
large dirty and undesirable third world city, however it is relatively nice.
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