5.1.13

Up and off to the market at Punanga Nui this morning. This is the Saturday morning market in Avarua the main town. A large collection of arts and crafts with many food stalls as well. A hot day with occasional waves of rain showers to add to the humidity. Lots of bright colours from the textiles waving in the breeze and the sound of Island music added to a festive atmosphere. Bumped into Alison Bond from Wairau, here with her family including my colleague David, son George and Alisons mother Irene, meaning that 25% of NMDHBs Paediatricians are at this market, that’s how popular it is. We had a delicious mango smoothy to help cool us down, the Kids were excited to buy some Manihiki pearls for $5 each, and the lady threw in a free one each (these pearls at a high grade go for up to $5000 each). Olivia had the occasional tantrum until one worked and she got herself a necklace and I bought a shell. We stocked up on fresh vegetables and some fish then watched the dancing show. Great morning for everyone. Did not manage to see David despite Alison saying he was in a bright orange top. Bright orange tops are as good as camouflage in this place though, so no surprise (he may have been hiding, to avoid talking about work!). We had some lunch from the market then headed home to change for a swim.

Everyone is feeling a bit better today so we headed back around to near the Rarotongan resort for a snorkel, with Di having a good time swimming today and being very happy about feeling better. Windy and choppy in this part of the lagoon today but this did not dampen spirits at all, and we all had a fun time.

Returned home and while Sophie and I went for a run, Di cooked up a top feed of the Majong (?) fish from the market and salad. Sophie, Pen, Danielle, Ben and I had another fiercely competed game of cards. Where do these kids get their competitive natures from, must be Di, …or a function of competition for resources with so many siblings.  

4.1.13

Woke at about 5am with the dawn chorus. Sounds nice doesn’t it. To a Kiwi the dawn chorus signifies a healthy population of native birds giving it what for in a loud but melodic way. Music to a tree huggers ears. Sadly this dawn chorus was a territorial battle between what sounded like several hundred roosters, they were going for it and now at 10pm are still telling us about their territory, with less vigor finally. The island does have a large population of free range chickens. I asked a local lady in Aitutaki about the ownership of the chickens there, when I visited for a conference in July, and she said they belong to no one, so if you can catch one it is yours. Clearly they are fast chickens as no one seems to have caught them. As I frustratingly could not get back to sleep I continued to read the book that I am reading at the moment “Moonwalking with Einstein” by Joshua Foer, about memory, and to add to the chicken theme he was describing the process of chicken sexing, which takes an indescribable skill of analyzing the appearance of the cloacal area in chicks. It is not obvious but there are apparently about 1000 features that chick sexers are trained to recognize. In the end they become so fast that they can sex up to 1700 chicks per day, but are not able to describe how they do it, as the recognition becomes intuitive. This is because male chickens do not lay eggs, and do not taste good, and the cost of keeping them alive until the sex is obvous at about 4 weeks is uneconomic. They are discarded. Coockodoodyl-doo! And they are annoying.

Lazy morning at home with Di and Ben still feeling unwell. After lunch everyone was getting cabin fever, so I took the kids out for a swim, and Di rested at home (to the tune of the weed eater on the driveway apparently). We headed down the coast road looking for a sheltered spot as it is a bit windy and found a nice spot just before the Rarotongan resort. Ben had planned to sit on the beach as he is not feeling well and he is traumatised by yesterdays snorkel vomiting episode, but once he saw the water he was into it with a big grin on his face. Olivia wasted no time today and couldn’t even wait for me to get into the water before she was off. I remembered the gopro camera this time, with the new dive housing and fresh battery, so we had some fun getting video of the fish and kids. Big schools of fish had a fair degree of excitement going on and the kids found a heap of treasure, mostly shells, but also a lead weight off a weight belt.

Cruised home for afternoon tea, the kids got into some movie making with acting that would get them onto Shortland street. We had a cook up of vegetarian butter chicken (!) then another competitive game of scrabble to end the day. 

3.1.13

Another day in paradise. Di staying close to the toilet with the tummy bug, Penelope fainted and Ben vomited in the lagoon while snorkeling.

Sleep in for everyone and Di was still feeling rotten so we did not venture far this morning. Several waves of teenage frustration lead to the crew mobilizing late morning and Di felt OK to join us so we headed into town, first stop the Police station for me to get a drivers license. Then we wandered down to the dive shop who did have some flippers for Ben so he was very happy, they also had jandals for Pen. Ben and I waited while the girls looked in various nick nack stores, then we went down to a surf shop to get some jandals for Danielle. It was very hot and humid and everyone was getting very scratchy so we went back into town to get an icecream. There was quiet a wait for icecream, and eventually it was our turn, however while we were ordering our icecreams one at a time Pen went very pale and said she felt dizzy, her pupils dilated and I told her to sit down but she said she couldn’t see. I guided her over to a bench to lye down and her legs were not working. She lay down before she lost consciousness and made a fairly quick recovery. A combination of heat, humidity, gastroenteritis and not drinking enough lead to the second episode of heat stroke in the family I think. We got some water into her and she eventually was good enough to continue. She wasn’t even keen on the icecream, now that is sick.

Drove at break neck speed once again (40km/hr) to find a cool spot to swim and cool down. We stopped at Muri beach and everyone cooled off while I enjoyed a coffee on the deck of the Sails restaurant and supervised. Tough life we are having. Coffeed up we moved along the beach to one of the islands and the three big girls took off while Olivia, Ben and I swam out through the corral. It was like a scene off Finding Nemo with the school teacher manta ray pulling the kids along. Ben was holding one arm intermittently swimming off to the side and Olivia hanging off the other arm, also braving some free swimming intermittently. Very cute. They are really getting their confidence up. Lots of colourful fish and very clear water. We got out to the island and Ben wanted to go onto the Island and moments after reaching the shore said he felt sick and promptly vomited into the lagoon several times. The fish were very pleased and enjoyed a second hand meal of ice-cream. Swam back to the shore past some interesting coral outcrops and back down the beach to the Sails restaurant for some hot chips and drinks to warm up. Ben said he was very hungry.

Cruised home having completed a circumnavigation of the island for the first time. Sophie and I went for a run. I made Sophie navigate as she claims she cann’t run on her own as she would get lost. That had me worried she has some sort of topographic agnosia, so I decided to test her out. We successfully ran down the back road past the prison, linked through to the main road through a small one lane road then back passed the Edgewater resort and golf course and back down the correct road to home, despite me trying to introduce doubt about her decisions. About and 8km loop without any sign of disorientation. I think she can find her way.

Went into town to the Palace takeaway for some hamburgers for dinner. The palace is not that salubrious, being a temporary building on the harbor front, but I was told by the car rental person that they have the best burgers in town (she probably owns the place). There has been a big crowd of people there every time we have passed the place which is usually a good sign. The sun set over the harbor as we waited and Ben stayed in the car still not feeling well. We took the feed home as it was dark by the time our order was ready. The burgers were OK.  Everyone is a bit worn out by the days events and there were no protests about bed time.

2.1.13 Rarotonga

Pretty tired this morning after a pretty disturbed sleep, poor old Ben is still under the weather, and Pen looks a bit pale as well. Sophie woke me at 8 for the promised morning run, I fended her off and convinced her I needed another half hour of sleep. Eventually I couldn’t play dead any longer, and Sophie and I went for a run. Within 100m I was literally a human inferno. Sweat was squirting from every pour, creating a force field of mist around my entire body, and I must have looked like I was melting. Sophie bounced along as if she was weightless and slowly disappeared into the distance. I thought to boost her “self esteem” I would let her run off, as if I couldn’t keep up. Fathers are good like that.

The heavens were kind and a refreshing rain started, but not long after this my bowels started to give me some very strong messages and I was reduced to a lemon faced walk, and was looking for a public toilet, with a degree of urgency. Couldn’t find one and out of desperation went into a mini-supermarket (is there such a word?) and asked to use there facilities. It was with great relief that I took a break here however with distress I discovered that the toilet didn’t flush. Not to worry, after a bit of rummaging around in the staff cleaning area, I found an old washing powder bin that served as a small bucket and a nearby tap. Several trips had the place presentable again and I wandered back into the mini-supermarket. Sophie seemed worried that something terrible had happened and the old lady preparing vegetables laughed and asked if I was alright? (with a knowing twinkle in her eye I might add).

We continued home, this time I was the one that was running like I was weightless and managed to keep up with Sophie this time. She is pretty confident, so I thought “to hell with her self esteem, I’ll show her who’s boss” and powered into my stride. Sadly, the advantage I have of 30 odd years of beer and sausage consumption is of little benefit, and I still followed her home.

Breakfast of the Pawpaw, that Danielle picked after scaling the tree in the garden was complemented by the coconut that the kids managed to smash open on the driveway. All of those Bear Grylls shows have lead to one proud and full father. Sadly Pen started vomiting too. She hates to make a fuss and said she was “fine” between reaches into the garden. Di started to look a bit pale and lost her spark as well. A quiet time at home was the order of the day with three members down, literally lying in bed and not having much fun at all.

I took the well ones out to lower the volume of singing and tomfoolery, to get some supplies for lunch and sign up for the vehicle, that we had not yet filled out any paperwork for. Went for a drive and eventually returned to the mini-supermarket as I felt we needed to spend some money there.

Home for a light lunch, which Pen refused and Ben regretted. After a bit more lying around everyone felt up to a trip to the beach again and off we went for another swim. We drove around the back road passed the prison, which led to an interesting discussion about what would a prison be needed for here?

Very refreshing water and the kids were all into it today. No hesitation from Olivia and she was even refusing any assistance from me as we swam out into the lagoon, and couldn’t understand why Di was sitting on the beach initially (still feeling less than 100%) I made sure we were by a public toilet this time, so there was no limitation and it was through feeling cold that we eventually left with spirits much higher from all. Had an interesting conversation in the middle of the lagoon, with an expat Cook Islander, Nick, who has lived in Kansas for 25 years and lamented the change in Raro since when he grew up here. I reassured him that everywhere has changed (I think anyway. Perhaps it is us that change to a greater degree?)

Cruised home at the break neck speed of 40 – 50km/hr, the local speed limit. This is a very soporific speed for someone who has been up a fair bit of the night going “there ,there…” and patting son on the back as he spewed. Thankfully a witty dialogue kept me awake, just. My mind did wander to the Isle on Mann that also has a slow speed limit, then once per year a death defying (mostly) motorbike race happens around the Island. Not sure that the roads here would handle 300km/hr superbikes going flat out, but this could be an interesting addition to the island if they wanted to up the profile. They may want to up the ante on supporting Stu Gowland’s cruise ship radiology and diagnostic service with emergency surgery facility if they did go with a race like this. Not so many stone walls to tango with at speed, but coconut trees would be equally unforgiving to the high speed motorcyclist who has unintentionally dismounted.

Cooked up a feed, low on volume as the frozen peas that we purchased had suffered from a failure in the cold chain at some stage (they were rotten). Di was in bed by 7pm feeling rotten herself (hopefully not just my cooking). Watched TV for a bit with the kids and saw the News, something that I rarely achieve for a couple of reasons, one being that it is all bad news. Floods, snow, fire, economic decay, murder…. On and on it went. Would drive anyone to drink. There must have been a baby born, or someone won lotto and did good, a successful business venture, an act of bravery or dareing do, come on News lighten up!

Eventually kids were asleep and I was driven to the bottle of Canadian Club, and the keyboard. Emma may have kick started a bad habit, very nice.

Cook Islands Holiday 2013

1/1/2013, the longest day of my life. Chronologically that is. Experientially specialist medical exams would be the longest day,… or perhaps Di in labour with Sophie (the others went faster),… or perhaps my wedding day, with standing at the alter wondering if Di would actually turn up, before I was struck by lightning by the finger of God for trespassing in his house, I would have to think about it carefully, however chronologically 1/1/13 was definitely the longest. We flew out from Nelson with a send off from Dick and Janet, Nicky and Mac at about 3.30 pm at headed to Auckland. A fair bit of debate over who would get which seat (mostly in reference to no one wanting to sit with Ben who smells very strongly at the moment, and is not shy about sharing the rancid smell of his internal organs with anyone) and the usual stares of incredulous people at the sight of five kids following Mother duck onto the plane. This was after a day of mad activity getting the property tidied up for our friends Rod, Janine, Zoe and Hunter who are house sitting while we are away. As we are in the middle of packing for our house move on our return the place was a mess and still is (sorry guys). Built a new fence for the pet sheep as she has run out of food in her lamb paddock. Paid the last of the pile of bills and finished GST. Going on holiday with too many loose ends is no fun at all.

I forgot to fill out the seven departure cards on the flight so spent quiet a few minutes writing these out before we could head through customs to the departure area. Tried to find a jacket for me, and flippers for Ben in duty free without success then into the koru lounge for a feed. We bumped into friends Nigel and Sue Parr in the lounge, who we haven’t seen for several years. They are headed for a very different holiday to us, while we will bask in the tropics they are skiing with their two sons at Whistler. Good to catch up with them briefly, they are in good form. We boarded the big plane at 730pm and flew north-east. At about 10pm I am guessing we crossed the international date line and were briefly back in 2012 before the entertainment screen announced Happy New Years as we went back into 1/1/2013 half an hour before touch down and a whole 24 hours of 1/1/2013 to go! I guess this day has been about 46 hours long, now that bodes well for an awesome year, It should be very productive.

Through customs at Raro with no drama about the fact that we had about 30kg of food in our bags (no fresh food, or meat seemed to be the critical issues, possibly helped by the hour of the day). We had organized a rental car for the first few days as the transfer fees covered about three days of car rental. The email instructions were that the car would be in the carpark unlocked with our name on the window and the keys under that mat,….welcome to the islands.

Marlene Boyd from the house that we have rented met us and guided us around the corner to the Te Kakaia Villa, a nice wee three bedroom house on Hospital hill. The heat and humidity was fairly crushing, but we all did the best we could to get to sleep, once again after some debate and trantrumming about who would sleep where. I eventually won and got to sleep with Di (and Olivia).

Woke up after a restless night of tossing and turning trying to find a cool position. Had some pawpaw from the garden and contacted Emma and Kieran by text then after getting the teenager up, headed to the Rarotongan to have some Brunch together. Emma and Kieran have been here for a week, and it sounds like they have had a fun time. Kieran told a hilarious anecdote of a trip they did for a snorkel to the other side of the Island. They left their money so as to not be worried about leaving it on the beach while they swam, but realised when there that he hadn’t shaved, which would lead to a leaking mask. They went into a store and got some shaving gear, but when they went to pay found the store did not take credit cards. The owner said “don’t worry, take it and come back and pay me latter”. When they returned a day or so later, he couldn’t remember how much it was and said to them to pay what they thought it was worth! Apparently he does this all of the time, and claims that people always pay. But who would know, he clearly does not keep records. Nice to catch up with them over lunch, before they had to leave on the bus for the airport.

We went along to the fruits of Rarotonga a marine reserve, for a snorkel. Sophie, Pen, Danielle and Ben were snorkeled up, and into the lagoon in very short order, they took to it like Smith kids to the water. Olivia was a bit more reserved, and took her time getting in, but after a while she got the idea and didn’t want to come out. Very cute watching her get used to the mask and snorkel, standing putting her mask and face under while standing then with a bit more bravery she was off floating and kicking and splashing in a semi coordinated effort to gain forward momentum. Eventually she was absorbed with the underwater world she could see through her mask, and I took out into water well over her head and she loved it. It was all cut short as Sophie needed to use the toilet, and there was none around, and Di’s suggestion to go in the sea was “Disgusting!”

Headed home for a dinner of Pasta prepared by Sophie and Pen. After dinner a Whiskey (for me) donated by Emma and Kieran and a game of Scrabble between Sophie, Di, Pen and me on the verandah as the sun went down and other kids entertained themselves in the hammock. A competitive game that I proudly came third in. Pen won, Sophie nailed a series of big scores and came in second and Di graciously came forth (last!).

We were all pretty tired and hit the sack with relief, not so hot tonight (or are we just acclimatising?) The end of a very long day…..

Not quite. Before midnight Ben started vomiting, I guess that explains why he has been a bit more malodorous than usual, in recent times. The end to a very, very long day. A night of supporting Ben while he vomited repeatedly. Happy days.