Thursday, June 14, 2012

La Paz to Coroico 11.6.12



Dropped Harrys bike off at the Kawasaki shop to get repaired. Sounds simple but this involved riding across the La Paz maize of certain doom for motorcyclists. The push and shove give way rules are magnified by the volume of traffic with this being the main city of Bolivia. We rode down into the depths of La Paz dropping quite a bit of altitude in the process. Eventually we found the place after numerous false starts and rapidly executed u-turns. It looks like it will take at least 24 hours to repair so Geert organized a rental bike for Harry to continue on, a Suzuki DR650. This was dropped of by the rental company then we dropped the Rental guy back at his part of town which was a long way back up the hill, then continued out of La Paz headed for the pass to Coroico.

We climbed through about 1000m altitude within the city we felt, then a further 500m to the pass. The pass is at 4700m and is very alpine with snow roadside, and impressive mountains rising all around. There was a camp of people staying in tents at the pass for some reason, drying chilies or some such thing in the sun, not really what you expect to see at this altitude. Across the pass and we began the decent. We stopped to look at the view after about 2km and the scenery is very impressive with steep cliffs dropping into the alpine valley. The road is excellent considering the extremes that it must endure. Americans built this road over about 20 years apparently. Through a couple of police stops and through a couple of tunnels and we stopped again to look at another view, this time of green bush covered mountains, the first greenery we have seen since leaving NZ. The road has cut across cliffs and very steep country and clouds have been blowing up the cliffs and curling over onto the road creating a surreal atmosphere. Off we went again and the road just continued going down and down. Periodically slips had damaged the surface and the surface was either under repair or had been repaired with cobblestones, so we had to keep our wits about us. Down, down, down, we could gradually sense a return in power in the motorbike engines and in our bodies. I became aware of how easily I was breathing, and how much stronger I felt. Eventually the road leveled off at 1000m with tropical rainforest vegetation now dominated, much warmer temperature and Bananas. We have gone from Lama to Banana. A loss of 3700m altitude in about 50km!

We regrouped after the next police check point and decided to push on to Coroico, about another half an hour. Back up we went on the opposite side of the valley this time on rough shingle and it was great to feel the power back in the bikes. Harry obviously had a surge of Bogan energy on his black Suzuki and passed with wheel spinning and throwing up gravel and rock. The road transitioned onto another cobblestone road that continued up the hill to Coroico. What a huge amount of work it must be to make these cobble stone roads, with an inlaid pattern of larger rocks laid perpendicular, lining the way up the hill, amongst the predominantly linear rock pattern. We fueled up then headed up through the town, which is a small place, and then up on a final steep street to our hotel. This hotel has a fantastic view back towards the new and the old road to La Paz with the steep valleys covered in lush vegetation, and the magnificent mountains in the background. It is easy to see why mountaineers come to the Andes to challenge themselves, the mountains are awe inspiring, steep rough and very high.

A welcome relaxing afternoon with beer in hand, enjoying the view, and a plunge in the swimming pool.


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